Thursday, March 8, 2007

One More Baby and One Less Baby.


I told her I wanted to be present when the baby was born. I spend a lot of time with my host-sister Mariella, but because of the way timid Ngäbe culture is, it´s sort of taboo to talk about being pregnant and giving birth or women's health in general, or even admitting to the number of children you have. This always seems very strange to me because there are SO MANY kids everywhere and men measure their masculinity by how many kids they have and with how many different women. But Mariella and I had built up enough trust that this request wasn't totally ridiculous to her. However, she must have forgotten all about me at 5 AM in the morning when she went into labor. So apparently by candlelight, in the middle of night, on the kitchen floor without water or soap, she gave birth to a little girl, delivered by my host-granny (who's about 100 years old, by the way).
To them it´s no big thing when a new baby is around, because there´s practically a new one every day. Its hard to walk down the street or enter a house or do a jumping jack without running into about 5 naked, smiling Ngäbe children. No one bothers to remember their names until they are of school age because there are so many of them, and instead simply call them¨che¨which is Ngäbe for either ¨small¨or ¨child¨. But I still weeped like a little wussy when they handed me the hours old little babe of Mariella in the morning with my breakfast and coffee.

My friend Ramon and I had been working for two days, fixing up the little palm roofed hut that will soon be my house....all mine. We had to replace the stairs, build a table, some holes in the porch, etc. He was really excited to cut down trees with the chainsaw we solicited from the Junta Comunal (wait, aren't I suppose to be reforesting?). On the third day, he informed me that he had some things he needed to do in the house, and so I offered to help as a way of thanking him for helping me. We cut some wood to make what looked to be a small box, and I asked what it was for curiously. A few days before, in the house next to mine, a month old baby died. The whole family hiked 10 hours out to the Cordiara (mountain) to harvest corn and plant bananas a week after this child was born, staying in a rancho and sleeping on a dirt floor next to a smoldering fogon for three weeks. And still no one understood why this baby became sick and wouldn't respond to the herbal medicine a curandero recommended to them. Some say the devil came in the night to take its soul and caused a ruckas as it left the house the day it died. So turns out, I was helping Ramon make a 2 foot long coffin.

My house still isn't finished.

Thursday, January 11, 2007

New Years Resolution with Haiku

I don´t know if I believe in formal New Years resolutions, but I do know that the beginning of the new year should be a good time to begin some of those things that you´ve ¨been meaning to do forever¨ or I suppose to pick up where you left off with unfinished business. With that said, this online journal is for those of you who may ask yourself from time to time...¨What the heck is Sara doing out there anyway?¨ As I walked away from Chicago on the 4th I realized that the most of you really don´t know. My trip home brought me the kind of perspective and insight I needed to document some of these unimaginable experiences out here in the jungles of Bocas del Toro. So read on you..... and welcome to my world....

Spent 2 weeks at home. I can say that too much has changed and at the very same time, too little. Had a bit of a hard time in conversation (had nothing to do that it was in English) ... wasn´t there for this, never heard about that. Its a strange feeling when your Granny gives you the low down on pop culture common knowledge. But, I too got some blank stares when talking openly about living in a hut and eating with my hands. Being in Chicago was also like a mental vacation from the alternate reality I have going in my little village of Nudobidi. How easy it was to get used to driving and consuming and showering.... Was greeted by Panama with a big ¨F-you Sara¨ as I killed three days in Santiago waiting for my lost baggage. Maybe it was meant to happen that way because I ran into some folks from my old community in Veraguas at the bus station who told me that my old host Mom has been worried about me and wants me to call her, which I´ve been meaning to do anyway, as well as visiting her in March. I wore the same Chicago-appropriate long sleeve shirt and woolen socks for three HOT days in the meantime ... maybe I wasnt ready to say goodbye to my Midwest. I forgot how beautiful those barren cornfields are when covered in snow and crowned with an icy gray cloudless sky.
I´m happy though to be walking into a busy month. I have back to back compermisos until the beginning of February, which include, but are not limited to: the beginning of my English class in the dirt floored school in town, participation in a fish tank building seminar (the kind that you do in a big hole in the ground), a three day Ngabere class, and a workshop that I coordinated with the local cacao cooperative for my community which will be facilitated by two Ngabe men in their indigenous language about how to properly prune and graft cacao trees. But what I´m really looking forward to is starting my Muchachas Guias (Girl Guide) group.... more info to come, so stay tuned. I was asked to write a haiku for the in-county Peace Corps newsletter (which I also submitted with a priceless photo of my host sisters playing my banjo). So I´ll leave you with this as my final good-bye to America:

Ngabe Children Don´t Where Pants or No Hay Latrina
Barefoot all day long
I step in human feces
Again and again
To view the online La Vaina (In-country PC newsletter), click on: http://www.panamapcv.net/lavaina/index.html